Ellen Merchant isn’t shy about her love of print and pattern. Upon graduating from the Royal College of Art in London, the British textile designer and decorative artist founded her eponymous line of fabrics, wallpapers, and homeware. She achieved instant acclaim, collaborating with design giants such as Studio Atkinson, and enjoying prestigious features in esteemed interiors publications across the UK. Today, Ellen’s star continues to rise with a namesake storefront and showroom representation around the world. Ellen recently invited Cloth Hall behind the scenes to learn more about her inspirations, creative process, and considered approach to designing a new collection.

Ellen Merchant in her studio.

CH: Hi Ellen! Thanks for giving Cloth Hall a sneak peek inside your practice. Please introduce yourself and tell us about your work.

EM: I create hand drawn, original prints for interior fabrics and wallpapers at my studio in a barn on the South Coast of England. Having a background in printing myself, the integrity of the printing process is at the heart of my textile collections, all of which are produced in England in small batches using traditional methods.

CH: You recently opened a storefront in Winchelsea, East Sussex featuring your beautiful wallpapers, fabrics and homeware. How have you found this experience and has it impacted your work?

EM: It has been a wonderful opportunity to let people in the local area know we are here. It is really useful to have a space people can visit to see my full collection and furniture pieces in person, rather than relying on photos and purely being online. My studio space now is much more spacious than when I was based in London and I love being surrounded by countryside when I am working; it definitely inspires my designs and process in a different way.

The Ellen Merchant shop in Winchelsea, East Sussex.

CH: When you aren’t in the shop or in your studio, what are your favourite ways to recharge?

EM: I live near the sea so I love to take our dog down to the beach for a walk. I also love going antique shopping, and exploring the characterful little local towns along the coast.

CH: At what point in your life did you discover surface design and the decorative arts? What drew you to it? 

EM: I always loved drawing and decorating things so even as a child I knew I wanted to be an artist of some kind. My passion for interiors grew, and while at Art College in London I spent a lot of time learning traditional printmaking, such as etching and screen printing, and I found my designs naturally lent themselves to pattern. I remember the first time I carved a repeating tile and hand blocked it onto fabric - that’s where my whole business started really! I used to print fabrics like that on my kitchen floor and sold them by the metre.

Lino printing experimentation later becomes Ellen's Springlee wallpaper.

CH: What inspires your work the most and when do you feel most creative?

EM: My work is inspired by a mix of plants and flowers, vintage design, and antique textiles as well as interesting combinations of colours I pick up from all over. Being in my studio on a sunny day with all the doors open makes me feel the most creative. My favourite part of my process is the messy experimental stage where I might be testing out various colours for a new print.

CH: What is your approach to designing a new collection?

EM: I do lots of drawing and keep a sketchbook full of rough ideas so I never have to scratch my head to think of new designs. I might try something out in a few different ways before committing to it and there is usually a bit of trial and error involved. I develop designs either to be screen printed or roller printed, most often originating from my hand carved lino tiles or from paintings.

CH: At CLOTH HALL we champion creating beautiful products for our living spaces using hand processes - why is this important to you?

EM: I believe creating good things takes time and I favour a slow and considered approach. It is so important that people understand the value of craft and quality over mass production. By choosing beautifully made, responsibly sourced products for our homes we ensure our pieces stand the test of time, and we don’t participate in throwaway culture.

Screen printing Poppies Linen in Papavero.

CH: You completed a foundational studies program at Central St Martins, went on to complete a BA in Fine Art at Camberwell College of Art and a Master Degree in Textile Design at The Royal College of Art in London. What advice would you give to students embarking on their careers in surface and pattern design?

EM: I’d say that you definitely learn by doing, so trying as many different techniques and experiences as possible is always going to help you find what you want to do. I never actually studied surface design and most of the skills I now use in my work are self-taught. In the early days at art school, I was even discouraged from decorative art as it was seen as too traditional. So don’t be afraid to create your own path if you are clear about where you want to go.

CH: Over the course of your career, you’ve received international recognition and accolades for your work. What do you consider your biggest career highlights so far?

EM: It was very exciting to be featured as one of House & Garden’s ‘Rising Stars’ in 2022, and releasing my first collection.

CH: Can you tell us what you are working on now?

EM: I’m currently working on new design sketches for my next collection. The ideas are all still works in progress, but feature a fun, new, large scale floral!

Nomad Linen in Bazaar.

View the full Ellen Merchant collection by appointment. Email info@clothhall.ca today.